From November 29, 2023, to April 28, 2024, the Musée des Arts décoratifs in Paris will host the exhibition Iris van Herpen. Sculpting the Senses takes place. As a former intern at the Iris van Herpen label, I was also able to work on the exhibition and was responsible for organizing the meetings, creating the schedule, and adapting the mood boards.
I have already presented the history of the Dutch company in the article about my internship – click here to read all about my time in Amsterdam.
A selection of over 100 haute couture looks from all the collections is juxtaposed with contemporary works of art by artists such as Philip Beesley, the Collectif Mé, Wim Delvoye, Kate MccGwire, Damien Jalet, Kohei Nawa, Casey Curran, Rogan Brown, Jacques Rougerie, and also by Neri Oxman, Ren Ri, Ferruccio Laviani, and Tomáš Libertíny. In addition, objects from the natural sciences, such as skeletons or fossils, are exhibited in some rooms.
In the following gallery, you will find an overview of the top 10 catwalk looks by Iris van Herpen.
As a pioneer in the application of new technologies in her field, Iris van Herpen transcends conventional clothing norms and relies on both traditional couture know-how and innovative and unconventional techniques.
The exhibition is curated by Cloé Pitiot and deputy curator Louise Curtis. Studio Nathalie Crinière was commissioned with the scenography. The museum describes itself and its vision as follows:
“Les Arts Décoratifs is a state-approved not-for profit private organization founded in 1882, in the wake of the Universal Exhibitions, when a group of collectors banded together with the idea of promoting the applied arts and developing links between industry and culture, design, and production.”
https://madparis.fr/the-institution
The exhibition was divided into eleven themes, which are presented below. However, this is not intended to be exhaustive and only contains the highlights of each theme. The focus here is on Iris van Herpen’s fashion, but the complementary art was also often a highlight, and is therefore also part of the following highlights. The artist, the collection, and the corresponding year are mentioned below.
The exhibition begins with the theme of water in all its forms, before moving on to the human anatomy. In addition to bones, the nervous system, and blood vessels, inspiration from nature, and in particular fossils and the extensive underground network of fungi, is omnipresent. After rooms seven and eight, which focus on the work and processes in the studio, the exhibition takes an abstract turn. The theme of fear is dealt with in gloomy looks using, for example, snake motifs. The last two thematic blocks deal with the designer’s vision of the future of our world. There is talk of a “new” nature, which finally leads to the abstract theme of the cosmos. Contrasting floral silhouettes and colors are placed in this environment, presenting the designer’s futuristic way of thinking.
The following pictures will give you an overview. Of course, these pictures and my subjective descriptions cannot replace a visit to the museum.
WATER AND DREAMS

Syntopia- Fall/Winter 2018/2019

Syntopia – Fall/Winter 2018/2019

Lucid – Spring/Summer 2016

Crystallization

Glass Dimensionism Dress – 2022

SENSORY SEA LIFE


Meta Morphism – Fall/Winter 2022

Meta Morphism – Fall/Winter 2022

Sensory Seas – Spring/Summer 2020

Sensory Seas – Spring/Summer 2020

Sensory Seas – Spring/Summer 2020
FORCES BEHIND THE FORMS

Capriole – Fall/Winter 2011/2012

Lucid – Spring/Summer 2016

Ludi Naturae – Spring/Summer 2018

Roots of Rebirth – Spring/Summer 2021

Roots of Rebirth – Spring/Summer 2021

Roots of Rebirth – Spring/Summer 2021
SKELETAL EMBODIMENT

Capriole – Fall/Winter 2011/2012

Capriole- Fall/Winter 2011/2012

Escapism – 2012

Meta Morphism – Fall/Winter 2022

Sensory Seas – Spring/Summer 2020

Sensory Seas – Spring/Summer 2020
GROWTH SYSTEM

Meta Morphism – Fall/Winter 2022

Micro – Spring/Summer 2012

Roots of Rebirth – Spring/Summer 2021

Roots of Rebirth – Spring/Summer 2021

Roots of Rebirth – Spring/Summer 2021

SYNAESTHESIA

Grimes Met Gala Look – 2021

Grimes Met Gala Look – 2021

Ludi Naturae – Spring/Summer 2018

Meta Morphism – Fall/Winter 2022


ALCHEMIC ATELIER

Raum 7 – Alchemic Atelier

Raum 7 – Alchemic Atelier

Raum 7 – Alchemic Atelier
CABINET OF CURIOSITIES

Architectonics – Fall/Winter 2023

Shift Souls – Spring/Summer 2019

Syntopia – Fall/Winter 2018/2019
THE MYTHOLOGY OF FEAR

Capriole – Fall/Winter 2011/2012


Capriole – Fall/Winter 2011/2012
NEW NATURE

Syntopia – Fall/Winter 2018/2019

Room 10 – New Nature

Seijaku – Fall/Winter 2016/2017

Capriole – Fall/Winter 2011/2012


Voltage – Spring/Summer 2013
COSMIC BLOOM

Architectonics – Fall/Winter 2023

f.l.t.r. Shifts Souls, Roots of Rebirth, Sensory Seas

f.l.t.r. Shifts Souls, Roots of Rebirth, Sensory Seas
I am very grateful to be part of this exhibition. I couldn’t have imagined a better way to experience the visit together with Margaux. We did the internship together in Amsterdam, and now we could see our work together.

I would also like to thank the Iris van Herpen team for this unique opportunity!










