Viktor & Rolf x Kunsthalle Munich

Dutch Couture – this is how I like to summarize the two labels Iris van Herpen and Viktor & Rolf. Both brands come from the Netherlands and have made a name for themselves in the fashion industry, even earning a spot at the Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris.

Typically, to qualify, a brand must maintain an atelier in Paris with at least 20 employees. However, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode reserves the right to grant a few places to labels that meet some, but not all, of the Haute Couture criteria. Since Haute Couture is a protected term, there must be objective criteria in place.

In this post, we’ll take a closer look at Viktor & Rolf:

The label has had many viral moments on social media – loud statement dresses, extravagant silhouettes, and intricate craftsmanship have garnered the attention the label deserves. In addition to social media, they also have a solid presence in the international press. Here are three examples of covers from some of the most renowned fashion magazines:

Additionally, their looks, which blend art and fashion, have been worn by artists such as Madonna, Lady Gaga, Doja Cat, and Cardi B.

Since February 23, 2024, the Kunsthalle Munich has been dedicating an exhibition to the designer duo, which I visited on September, 21 2024. Before delving deeper into the exhibition, it’s worth taking a look at the history of the label.

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The History of Viktor & Rolf

• 1992 – Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren graduate from the ArtEZ University of Arts in Arnhem, Netherlands.

• 1998 – The presentation of their first Haute Couture collection at the Galerie Thaddeus Ropac in Paris.

• 1999 – The duo recognized fashion shows as a marketing tool. Instead of a traditional runway show, the “Russian Doll” collection was presented on a single model. Maggie Rizer, standing on a rotating platform, initially wore only a modest, frayed mini dress. Gradually, the two designers added more garments to her outfit.

From 2000 to 2012, the label did not design any Haute Couture collections. Since 2013, Viktor & Rolf have been significantly shaping the Haute Couture landscape.

• 2000 – Two years later, they launched their first Ready-to-Wear collection titled “Stars & Stripes”.

• 2005 – The first women’s fragrance “Flowerbomb” was launched. Just a year later, the first men’s fragrance “Antidote” followed. In the following years, other fragrances such as Bonbon, Eau Mega, and Spicebomb for men were launched.

• 2006 – Viktor & Rolf collaborated with H&M, following in the footsteps of Stella McCartney and Karl Lagerfeld. This step significantly increased the label’s visibility.

• 2008 – Collaboration with OTB begins. OTB includes brands like Diesel, Maison Margiela, and Jil Sander.

• 2016 – Viktor & Rolf Mariage is launched. One of the most famous clients is YouTuber Nikkie Tutorials.

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• 2019 – The Haute Couture collection “Fashion Statements” caused viral moments with striking colors and slogans such as “No photos please”, “Sorry I am late I didn’t want to come”, and “I’m not shy I just don’t like you”. You can find the three mentioned looks in the gallery a bit further down.

• 2023 – The brand celebrates its 30th anniversary.

The underlying source is the official Viktor & Rolf website. Click here to learn more about the history of the label.

Before we take a closer look at the exhibition at the Kunsthalle Munich, here is a compilation of the most iconic runway looks from recent Haute Couture collections. This list is not based on any objective criteria but merely reflects my personal taste.

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The Exhibition at the Kunsthalle Munich:
Fashion Statements

UPSIDE DOWN

As early as 2005, the concept of turning everything upside down was typical for the designer duo Viktor & Rolf. The flagship store in Milan’s Quadrilatero d’Oro was designed by Siebe Tettero and SZI Design. Inverted arches were padded, and the herringbone parquet flooring was mounted on the ceiling, along with chairs and shelves.

For their Haute Couture collection “Late Stage Capitalism Waltz” in 2023, they revisited this theme, expressing it through striking ball gowns. This set the tone for the exhibition – it was meant to be grand!

FASHION ARTISTS

The exhibition followed a chronological curation. At the start of their career, Viktor & Rolf primarily captivated the art scene before gaining recognition in the fashion world. Early on, they were more critical of the fashion industry. In 1995, they exhibited the collection “L’Apparance du Vide” at the Patricia Dorfmann Gallery in Paris. Five golden polyester looks hung from the ceiling, while five black silk organza looks lay on the floor, representing the shadows of the golden outfits.

The significance of music became apparent as a tape played in the background, with children reciting the names of top models like Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, and Claudia Schiffer. This recording was made by Viktor’s mother, who was a teacher.

It was criticized that in the 1990s, the focus was often on the supermodels rather than the fashion being presented.

For a look back at the career highlights of the supermodels, feel free to click here.

In 1998, they showcased their first of five consecutive Haute Couture collections, exploring the limits of wearable art.

MATRJOSCHKA

“Russian Doll” was the title of the 1999/2000 Haute Couture collection. Model Maggie Rizer stood on a constantly rotating podium, and layer upon layer of clothing was gradually added to her by the designers. Initially, she wore nothing but a simple jute dress – highly unusual for a Haute Couture show, where only the finest fabrics are typically presented. At the end of the show, the designers received a standing ovation. The eight looks were later displayed as dolls in the exhibition, with only the penultimate look shown in full size.

FASHION STATEMENTS

In a large hall reminiscent of a Disney-like ballroom, Viktor & Rolf’s work was displayed under the title “Fashion Statements.” Chandeliers, mirrors on the walls, and music by Max Richter enhanced the ambiance. Starting in 2005, the designers consciously incorporated slogans into their collections, increasingly inspired by social media. Several examples are shown in the following gallery.

DOLLS

Since 2006, the designer duo has been creating a doll for each collection, dressed in miniature versions of the most important looks. Over time, an impressive collection has emerged. Examples of the dresses in their original size, as well as their miniature versions for the dolls, are on display here.

PERFORMING FASHION

This room showcased the brand’s runway concepts, which surprise every season. Examples included collections titled “Bells” (2000/2001), “The Fashion Show” (2007/2008), “Cutting Edge Couture” (2010), and “Red Carpet Dressing” (2014).

LE PARFUM

“Le Parfum” was the name of the brand’s first fragrance, released in 1996 in a limited edition of 250 pieces at the Parisian concept store Colette; none were left! Although the flacon contained a liquid, it wasn’t perfume. The bottle was sealed with wax, preventing anyone from smelling it. This was a critique of the fashion world, which, according to the designers, often sells an image rather than a reality.

This theme was echoed in an earlier exhibit from 1996. After winning the Hyères Prize, Viktor & Rolf designed several collections but eventually became financially drained and frustrated. To vent their anger, they hung strike posters in Paris, but no one seemed to care, and their frustration grew. As a result, they decided to create their first Haute Couture collection and establish their own brand.

UPCYCLING COUTURE

Upcycling involves creating something new from existing materials. As early as 1998, Viktor & Rolf used fabric from Yves Saint Laurent, deliberately leaving the selvedge with the logo visible as part of the design. This technique was repeated in subsequent collections until their archives and stock were nearly depleted.

In 2020, they drew on a collection of fabric samples from their suppliers that had accumulated over the years. From these fabrics, the Haute Couture collection “Patchwork” was created.

ON STAGE

Viktor & Rolf regularly design costumes for theater, opera, and ballet. Below, you will find examples from the opera “Der Freischütz” for the Festspielhaus Baden-Baden in Germany.

How do you like the designs of the Dutch designer duo?

For detailed pictures and further impressions, I recommend you visit my Pinterest profile, where you can find additional shots and detailed photos.